Firenze!

17 - 21 May, 2013.  Florence, Italy.  

So what is to say about Florence - or Firenze to the Italians and savvy travelers, like us?  It is the ancient Italian City-State that gave impetus to the spread of democracy on the peninsula, and from where the Renaissance sparked amidst the Dark Ages in Europe.  As my first-ever stop in Italy - after a typically awry trek across the Mediterranean - this unabashedly ancient and wonderous nation steeped in the rich history of the ancient Western world, I found Florence to be almost more overwhelming than Rome.   

Which is NOT to say Florence itself was NOT overwhelming - because it most certainly was, in almost every aspect.  Despite my limited experience in the country, I'm inclined to beleive claims that Firenze is the fire in Italy's boot.  

Given its place in European and Western history, especially from Dark Ages through to the end of the Renaissance - its role in the development of such massive Western institutions and ideologies, like representative government, mercantilism, the Catholic Church, humanism, the arts and humanities, and science - today, evidence abounds of the pride and distinction felt by those both native and local to here.  

Perhaps, also, something in the vein of that firey Florentine spirit is shared with and by all those who visit here, too.  In so doing, it perpetuates and sustains the unique character of this phenomenal City...

This photo was snapped close to the moment of epiphany, when I realized I was headed for Florence at just the right place and time for me.  Despite the downpour, the late taxis, and an arrival time 8 hours later than estimated - this instance upon disembarkation in Florence re-envigorated my great affection for all modes of transit, and particularly the wonderful people who explore the world on bikes.  This cycling couple (going around Europe under their own power!) embodied this very old, and respected image of the wary traveler, one who carries on very movement of people and ideas!  Dock-side at the port city of Livorno, Italy.

Firenze! Firenze!  The view South from the top the iconic 'el Duomo' onto the historic City center,  encompasses what is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site - the entire historic downtown of Florence.

Art, art, everywhere!  

At vertices of buildings and streets everywhere - truly, everywhere! - can be found these corner ensconces and devices all over Florence showcasing Dark and Middle Age frescos and statuary, and Renaissance art and sculpture, too.  What abounds here, to the point that it overflows onto the streets and alleys, is a veritable slice of Florentine art, religious, and political history.  Three examples from various parts of the historic downtown, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

More and more statues everywhere!!  A badass sculpture by Benvenuto Cellini, his publicly displayed "Perseus with the Head of Medusa" (left); and a version of one of the most copied sculptures from Greek antiquity,  the Thorn-Puller, or "Lo Spinario" (right).  

Live and direct: Sandro Botticelli's "The Birth of Venus".  I was in clandestine-photog mode while here inside the stupendous Uffizi Gallery.  Typically, no photos were 'allowed' here... however, it appears they make obvious - albeit unofficial - exception in this room for this piece.  Florence, Italy. 

Absolutely stunning inside - in its arrangement, the coloring, and the buildings' history itself - this market-turned-church began its life in 1337 as a multistoried grain market, and soon after as a church used by the City's guild and merchant elite.  Today services and worshippers continue on, and visitors abound.  Another clandestine photo op.  Orsanmichele, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Michelozzo's courtyard, or the Courtyard of the Columns, the interior open-air gallery of Palazzo Medici Riccardi, a rather ostentatious 15th century Medici home for the family founder, now converted to a large, and extremely well-crafted public gallery...

..Very luckily for me, one of the current visiting galleries included The Dali Universe Florence, "an exploration of Dali's three-dimensional forms", which featured a plethora of his crafted and sculpted works.  For me, this showcase heightened my respect for and delight of his works, for one because of the range of materials and media, including this piece like this bronze sculpture...

..In another sections of the Palazzo Museum, there was an fascinating retrospective exhibit of Gunther Stilling's work, featuring over 80 of his uniquely stylized pieces in a rather haunting bio-mechanical human figures and parts.  Terra Incognita Exhibit, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

This guy is one of my favorites - something like a two-headed merman, sitting low along a wall inside the Garden.  Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

An early rain gage, from the late 19th century, from one of my favorite exhibits - EVER: dal Cielo alla Terra,  or 'From the Sky to the Earth: meteorology and seismology in Florence from the 19th Century to Today'.  Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Another early example of a fine seismic instrument.  This phenomenal exhibit was a rather geeky one dedicated to the long tradition of the two fields in Italy and Florence, both for which I have a newfound respect and appreciation (work-related)...  

..and some more very spectacular instruments.  One is an early version of a seismograph (left), and the other, one of my favorites, an early 20th century Pluviografo a bascula, or a tipping-bucket rain gage.  What more can one ask for in Florene: art, science, and human ingenuity?  "From the Sky to the Earth", Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Il Duomo

One of my personal favorite photos, and a shot of the iconic Florentine structure - il Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore.  Construction of this magnificent Gothic cathedral's central began in the late 13th century...

...and Brunelleschi's famous dome - the largest free-standing such structure built since Roman antiquity - was added in the 15th century, using a technique that has apparently been lost to time...

...and the current exterior finish, an incredibly ornate and clearly expensive Neo-Gothic facade of polychrome marble in green, red, and white was completed in the 19th century.  Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

While extraordinarily spectacular on the outside, the interior of the cathedral is surprisingly austere and bare of much ornamentation - except for Vasari & Zuccari's almost 39,000 sq. ft., 16th century fresco under the dome, "The Last Judgement".  A result of the Medici's influence during initial design phases, the humble interior of the cathedral was touted early on as justification for the expense and glamor of the exterior facade.  Under the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Increasingly popular world-wide, these Love Locks were affixed to a gated window on the outer dome of the Cathedral of Florence, overlooking the unbelievably old downtown Florence.  Climbing the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Another view across Florence, from a small window along the route to the top of il Duomo - this time from a rain gutter.  Near the roof, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Florentine Living

Ponte Vecchio, medieval stone bridge over the Arno River has existed in some form here before since at least 996 C.E.  Another iconic Florentine image, this Ponte still has many shops and stalls on and around the bridge in a traditional river-side market style.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Gallery along the River Arno just to the north of Ponte Vecchio filled to nearly bursting with visitors and locals.  Very cool symmetry and repetition here, with some great depth - another personal favorite photo.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Panoramic view of the weekend flea market in Florence, situated along the banks of the small lake next to Fortezza da Basso.  The weather here was surprisingly fluid (no pun), very similar to Florida in respect to those quick changes in conditions throughout the day; just minutes before I snapped this shot I was treated to a lovely (ie. I was unprepared) springtime Tuscan downpour.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

A side of modern Italian life, particularly here in Florence where big-moneied residents still get out and flaunt it.  I happened upon this weekend congregation of sports cars as I meandered away from il Duomo - while looking for another of those classic Florentine enjoyments: gelato.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.



Last, but not least: I found my goal!  I seem to have a knack for being in the right place - or at least finding out about - some very cool and fun local events when I travel.  During this trip, while in Florence it was the Firenze Gelato Festival!!  Here, mobile gelato crafting for fresh curb-side treats, right here in the birthplace of gelato itself.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

This work by Tim Paez is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

Back across the Pond!

April 2013

So the journey continues... from the steamy, placid tropics I returned back to San Francisco and the Default world.  For a time, the stability and familiarity of a place - and of course the companionship of friends and colleagues - is enough to satiate that gnawing curiosity of places unknown and unexplored.

Only by approaching my home-turf with the eyes and ears of the traveller (a perspective gained only once one passes through the unknown.. or certain drug-induced experiences, I presume), I can lay aside the wanderlust that is ever kept at bay - and explore this City anew for a while.  My instagram account ( @HalcyonSurfer ) is another outlet I began to cultivate in the meantime.. but now it just reinforces that travel itch.  Also, sharing is caring - all my work carries a Copyleft and is open for free use under Creative Commons Licensing (see below, link)

The photos laid out heretofore are taken with a Sony Cybershot DSC-HX30V 

 
These works by Tim Paez are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License

26 April 2013 -

That impulse is what drives me here: on the plane, overnight, hurtling across the Atlantic Ocean.  What beauty I saw this evening while in transit - as if to usher me into the next phase of this spellbinding journey called Life (and from the US to the EU) with a premonition of what I would contemplate and learn while trekking - reminded me of the brilliantly unsuspecting joyous moments that arise anywhere, at home or while on the move, when our guard against the unexpected is down and when we can greet the world with a smile rather than a grimace..

Here it begins - my first view EVER of Aurora Borealis!  After a few relatively quiet days with family, this view from the plane teases my wanderlust on my first voyage to the UK.  At this latitude, the Northern Lights were not so visible to the naked eye.  8 sec shutter speed, somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean.

In the radiance of those thoughts do I arrive to Heathrow, outside of London.  I feel like I know my one destination - the overarching one, I think - but I know not my route in between.. and I'm damn near giddy at the prospect!   

Liverpool it is!  A lively port city, with roots in the shipping and sailing industry that go back further and deeper than the age of most U.S. cities.  Here, long the center of the city's main trades, is Albert Dock, Liverpool, UK.

Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral, rear entrance.  This was an exciting stumble-upon during an itinerant amble through Liverpool on my first day there. And yet another favorite photo of mine..

Stained glass inside of the grand, luminous lantern tower of the Liverpool Metropolitan Cathedral.

    

Badass statue of Poseiden, god of the Sea, ringed by a green and aquamarine stained glass wall. All housed inside this magnificent, commanding cathedral.  I should have known here the prolificness with which I would find such edifices in the EU - the diversity and amount of places of worship found here, active or preserved, is ASTOUNDING. 

A very warm welcome to the politics and culture of beer of Europe! Prohibition era photo on the outside of a bar - "Do not cease to drink beer, to eat, to intoxicate thyelf, to make love, and celebrate the good days."  Liverpool downtown, UK.

St. Lukes Church - bombed out and gutted almost completely during World War 2 - now stands as one of the most remarkable conversions of urban space I have ever seen....

...where a combination community art space and public garden exists in tandem with an array of local events - public  (art shows and concerts, etc.) and private (weddings, fundraisers, etc.) - that take place throughout the year.  A remarkable re-utilization of space...

..in all its elements. 

Some of my favourite of many fine specimens of art from inside the World Museum in Liverpool.   A wonderful day spent here, and around town, exploring with a local side of the city new friends.

Wartime propaganda poster, from a very cool collection inside the Merseyside Maritime Museum, Liverpool, UK.  One of my very favourite museums - anywhere.  Many thanks to the good friends who both suggested and joined me to visit here.

This... this was a very cool exhibit.  Funny and engaging, there was certainly a bit of learnings to be done in this section on an unsung part of maritime culture.  

You'll have to view this one at full-zoom - 'Polari' was the subculture language used by GLBTQ sailors and their allies on the seas. 

For communicating about their more liberal lifestyle, particularly at sea, Polari was (is?) the slang of the GLBTQ maritime community.  It was a gauge, and both a second glance and a more informal dialect of discourse, amongst each other, their allies, and other friendly passengers.

Journey highlights - Worship

Worship:

Fascinating to me everywhere I go are the places and practices of worship.  I'll detour almost anywhere to see a spectacular temple, to find a quiet mosque, visit a quirky church, or burn incense at a far-flung altar or shrine or cemetery. I don't understand at all the fervor of faith... but I revel in the reverent awe of untamed landscapes, full-throated expressions of culture and social identity, unfiltered fresh air, and naturally clean water. I'm in that growing category of folks who aren't quite atheist, somewhat animist, and a tad bit pagan - yet adamantly spiritual by experience, but a-religious in practice.  And so it's often to the places and celebrations of worship & reverence - where the bulk of humanity seeks internal peace, happiness & community - that I find myself drawn to wherever I go.

Here are some snapshots of a few side-treks and some too-quickly-passed-by places of faithful expression during this visit.  I include details (names, locations, etc.) where I recall or was aware, but some spots were simply surprise discoveries.

 Fun and bright, this Buddhist temple is right down the block from our hosts' house in the Binh Thanh District and the first I visited in the city.  I'm still impressed by the ornate dragon statues above the entryway and the typically immaculate care of the grounds by the resident monks. Saigon, Vietnam.

Tombs of south Vietnamese general Marshall Le Van Duyet and his wife.  A national folk and cultural hero, pilgrims during the new year Tet celebrations came here to assert oaths of good faiths and avow committments.  He's rather controversial in the political context of the modern Communist regime for his role in putting down the Tay Son rebellion and facilitating expansion of French colonial influence.  The temple grounds are relatively newly renovated (c.1937), and were very awesomely decorated for Tet.  Le Van Duyet Temple, Saigon, Vietnam.

While the light balance was off in the photo here, the arrangement of incense burner and alter is very typical. And I thought it looked cool. Saigon, Vietnam.

Super-sized young Buddha statue.  Saigon, Vietnam.

View from the roadside of a very pagoda in the seaside town of Mui Ne, Vietnam.  Despite the electrical lines, I still can't get over how awesome the roof is.

Spectacular statuary of a multi-eyed Buddha (look closely at the hands!) at the Linh An Pagoda.  Near Elephant Falls around Nam Ban, Vietnam.

Giant golden Buddha at a monastery atop a tall hill outside the city center.  Dalat, Vietnam.

Past, present, & future Buddha's.  Clandestine photo from outside during morning service. Linh An Pagoda.

Another variation on the eternal Buddha.  The wild variety of this image throughout China and Vietnam (and far beyond, I'm sure) inspires awe and a grand appreciation for the diversity of the culture here. Linh An Pagoda.

A stellar larger-than-life Buddha at Linh An Pagoda, flanked by a small army of Bodhisattva statues. 

An esoteric Buddha statue, at the Lamasery in Beijing.  Covered for a reason, this and the series of similar statues were at one time used to teach the young emporer the wonders and mystery of divine copulation.

Way old school.  Centuries-old statues that are still revered for their luck-imbuing reputation.  

Giant wooden Buddha statue inside the Lamasery, Beijing.

 Another esoteric Buddha statue, heralded by the 8 sacred symbols. Lamasery, Beijing, China. 

A proliferation of these colorful and festive cemetaries dotted the countryside all throughout Vietnam. Perhaps it was the time of year - just before Tet - but the buzz of activity, sounds, and smells makes me think the Vietnamese take on death is more a celebration of life. From the train, enroute to Saigon.

Rear-side view of Notre Dame Cathedral, downtown Saigon.

  

 

 And here, Notre Dame Cathedral from the front.  Another favorite shot. 

 Simple (when compared to many Buddhist temples) yet stunning entrance and central spire of the Saigon Central Mosque - c.1935.  Stopping in here for a few quiet moments amidst the hive of activity that is the downtown Dong Khoi district was like a cool breath of fresh air. 

Marvelous entrance to the Mariamman Hindu Temple, the only one still in active use in Saigon by the 60 or so Hindu's still here.  The interior was bedecked in similarly spectacular colors and images.

Chris, lighting some joss sticks just inside Mariamman Temple.  It is revered by many Vietnamese and ethnic Chinese and reputed to have strong healing energies.  The whole temple had a lively, healthy vibe - definitely worth a trek to check it out.

 Statue of the Hindu god Mahavishnu inside the temple, one of many continually and meticulously maintained by the Tamil Hindu's who run the temple.

 Cho Quan Church, in downtown Saigon.  I liked the angles & lines in one, with streamers and flags laid out for the Tet holiday...

 ..but one of the coolest things at Cho Quan Church is the liberal use of neon lighting around the iconography sprinkled all over the church grounds.  Here, a grotto dedicated to the Virgin. 

The photos laid out heretofore are taken with an Olympus Stylus 1050 SW 

 
These works by Tim Paez are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License