Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Barcelona - [BCN] pt. 1 - Hoy en dia

Even modernity retains its old-school charm here. Another favorite - snapshot of an old-style bank and currency changer.


27 December 2009 - Technically I arrived to Barcelona last night, after our stop in Huesca. But what an arrival into one of the most ancient but hippest cities on the Mediterranean between Christmas & New Years. I kept feeling a silent, gleeful simmering from everyone around me; like a majorly subdued fiesta was about to explode into the streets. But after a few days of exploring and meeting people, I began to think it might always feel that way here.

So.. why that? First and foremost, Barcelona is Barcelona - that is its identity has remained strong for nearly 4 millenia. It's history is rich, varied, and deep across all its eras. Part 2 is a short summary of early BCN history (written & in photos) to get a sense of what this means today. Second, in light of its history modern and ancestral Barcelonans have endured major hardships... so the City obviously knows how to have a good time! Could it also be the brilliant holiday season? the gorgeous Mediterranean kissing its shores? or the eternally-bohemian cultural scenes? Sure, it could be all that too.


This view greeted us upon arrival to Barcelona - blocks and blocks of LED lights celebrating the holidays - "Merry Christmas" in seven languages.


Chris & I making our way through Antonio Gaudi's Parc Guell on our last day in Barcelona. Like a surreal wonderland.


A tiny corner portrait of this 13th century-era Barcelona staple, la Mercat de la Boqueria (a.k.a. Mercat de Sant Josep). Just off La Ramblas in el Bari Gotic with great prices and even better fare.


Fresh 'shrooms a-plenty, in another side corner of el Mercat de la Boqueria.


Chris, getting fruity on La Ramblas.


The Nativity facade on this famous cathedral shows Gaudi's stone rendition of the holy family. It was recently designated by UNESCO a World Heritage Site. Clearly, this sculpture is one intricacy among many here depicting the life of Christ...


... including this austere detailing of Chrsts' crucifixion. It hangs over the main entrance of the Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia...


... or the Temple of the Holy Family, sown here in front view. You must admit Gaudi's got flair. Nope, those aren't just repairs or a new paint job...


... but clear evidence that 118 years in and it's still in the making. I've seen some amazing spiritual places, but this one's near-immodesty evinces some powerful big spenders. Go figure, that actually includes gift-shop patrons.


Another Gaudi, at first publicly unaccepted and nicknamed "la Pedrera", the quarry, a.k.a Casa Mila, c. 1906-10.


Casa Battlo, c.1904-06. Apparently no single straight line or surface on its front.


Unique buildings abound (non-Gaudi), this one on the corner of la Ramblas & Llano de la Boqueria near el Mercat in el Bari Gotic.


Street art - near the culturally (& market) rich historic district of el Bari Gotic.

More street art - and another a favorite: "Respect Animals".

Another favorite (there's LOTS more!) that reads "The Power of the Word".

"We don't want our brothers from the North to give us a hand". I must agree, a wise desire given the resultant history of most US-backed aid.

Another powerful street-level acknowledgement of famous 'foibles' in Western history. Not ironically, it was draped on the base of a statue to Cristobal Colon. Christopher Columbus sailed for... Spain!


History lives in BCN. An ancient Christian holyday to a Catholic saint, celebrated in even ancient-er Catalan folk traditions. Another favorite shot, this is technically the grand, non-exclusive finale...

... and this was just before, where we watched an exclusive group of musicians, organizers, and demons light the saintly effigy ablaze. BCN's result of diverse influences on religion: fireworks, music, demons, and boisterous crowd...

... the last of which was not at all calmed by the super exclusive, demons-only futbol game, played within a flaming arena and the ball is on fire. Really, the Spanish embody classy and bad-ass.


Loaded packs, still no train ticket, exhausted, no lodging, sweet warm soda, multigrain sliced bread, jam, Parc Guell, BCN at our feet, the Med in the background - most romantic moment of my life. This is why I love traveling.
I grabbed this description from a BCN-based home rental site, though I modified it some:
Barcelona has maintained its identity without renouncing coexistence, has excelled in design without losing traditions, and has remained a cosmopolitan capital without forgetting its customs.

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