Firenze!

17 - 21 May, 2013.  Florence, Italy.  

So what is to say about Florence - or Firenze to the Italians and savvy travelers, like us?  It is the ancient Italian City-State that gave impetus to the spread of democracy on the peninsula, and from where the Renaissance sparked amidst the Dark Ages in Europe.  As my first-ever stop in Italy - after a typically awry trek across the Mediterranean - this unabashedly ancient and wonderous nation steeped in the rich history of the ancient Western world, I found Florence to be almost more overwhelming than Rome.   

Which is NOT to say Florence itself was NOT overwhelming - because it most certainly was, in almost every aspect.  Despite my limited experience in the country, I'm inclined to beleive claims that Firenze is the fire in Italy's boot.  

Given its place in European and Western history, especially from Dark Ages through to the end of the Renaissance - its role in the development of such massive Western institutions and ideologies, like representative government, mercantilism, the Catholic Church, humanism, the arts and humanities, and science - today, evidence abounds of the pride and distinction felt by those both native and local to here.  

Perhaps, also, something in the vein of that firey Florentine spirit is shared with and by all those who visit here, too.  In so doing, it perpetuates and sustains the unique character of this phenomenal City...

This photo was snapped close to the moment of epiphany, when I realized I was headed for Florence at just the right place and time for me.  Despite the downpour, the late taxis, and an arrival time 8 hours later than estimated - this instance upon disembarkation in Florence re-envigorated my great affection for all modes of transit, and particularly the wonderful people who explore the world on bikes.  This cycling couple (going around Europe under their own power!) embodied this very old, and respected image of the wary traveler, one who carries on very movement of people and ideas!  Dock-side at the port city of Livorno, Italy.

Firenze! Firenze!  The view South from the top the iconic 'el Duomo' onto the historic City center,  encompasses what is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site - the entire historic downtown of Florence.

Art, art, everywhere!  

At vertices of buildings and streets everywhere - truly, everywhere! - can be found these corner ensconces and devices all over Florence showcasing Dark and Middle Age frescos and statuary, and Renaissance art and sculpture, too.  What abounds here, to the point that it overflows onto the streets and alleys, is a veritable slice of Florentine art, religious, and political history.  Three examples from various parts of the historic downtown, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

More and more statues everywhere!!  A badass sculpture by Benvenuto Cellini, his publicly displayed "Perseus with the Head of Medusa" (left); and a version of one of the most copied sculptures from Greek antiquity,  the Thorn-Puller, or "Lo Spinario" (right).  

Live and direct: Sandro Botticelli's "The Birth of Venus".  I was in clandestine-photog mode while here inside the stupendous Uffizi Gallery.  Typically, no photos were 'allowed' here... however, it appears they make obvious - albeit unofficial - exception in this room for this piece.  Florence, Italy. 

Absolutely stunning inside - in its arrangement, the coloring, and the buildings' history itself - this market-turned-church began its life in 1337 as a multistoried grain market, and soon after as a church used by the City's guild and merchant elite.  Today services and worshippers continue on, and visitors abound.  Another clandestine photo op.  Orsanmichele, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Michelozzo's courtyard, or the Courtyard of the Columns, the interior open-air gallery of Palazzo Medici Riccardi, a rather ostentatious 15th century Medici home for the family founder, now converted to a large, and extremely well-crafted public gallery...

..Very luckily for me, one of the current visiting galleries included The Dali Universe Florence, "an exploration of Dali's three-dimensional forms", which featured a plethora of his crafted and sculpted works.  For me, this showcase heightened my respect for and delight of his works, for one because of the range of materials and media, including this piece like this bronze sculpture...

..In another sections of the Palazzo Museum, there was an fascinating retrospective exhibit of Gunther Stilling's work, featuring over 80 of his uniquely stylized pieces in a rather haunting bio-mechanical human figures and parts.  Terra Incognita Exhibit, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

This guy is one of my favorites - something like a two-headed merman, sitting low along a wall inside the Garden.  Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

An early rain gage, from the late 19th century, from one of my favorite exhibits - EVER: dal Cielo alla Terra,  or 'From the Sky to the Earth: meteorology and seismology in Florence from the 19th Century to Today'.  Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Another early example of a fine seismic instrument.  This phenomenal exhibit was a rather geeky one dedicated to the long tradition of the two fields in Italy and Florence, both for which I have a newfound respect and appreciation (work-related)...  

..and some more very spectacular instruments.  One is an early version of a seismograph (left), and the other, one of my favorites, an early 20th century Pluviografo a bascula, or a tipping-bucket rain gage.  What more can one ask for in Florene: art, science, and human ingenuity?  "From the Sky to the Earth", Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Il Duomo

One of my personal favorite photos, and a shot of the iconic Florentine structure - il Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore.  Construction of this magnificent Gothic cathedral's central began in the late 13th century...

...and Brunelleschi's famous dome - the largest free-standing such structure built since Roman antiquity - was added in the 15th century, using a technique that has apparently been lost to time...

...and the current exterior finish, an incredibly ornate and clearly expensive Neo-Gothic facade of polychrome marble in green, red, and white was completed in the 19th century.  Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

While extraordinarily spectacular on the outside, the interior of the cathedral is surprisingly austere and bare of much ornamentation - except for Vasari & Zuccari's almost 39,000 sq. ft., 16th century fresco under the dome, "The Last Judgement".  A result of the Medici's influence during initial design phases, the humble interior of the cathedral was touted early on as justification for the expense and glamor of the exterior facade.  Under the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Increasingly popular world-wide, these Love Locks were affixed to a gated window on the outer dome of the Cathedral of Florence, overlooking the unbelievably old downtown Florence.  Climbing the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Another view across Florence, from a small window along the route to the top of il Duomo - this time from a rain gutter.  Near the roof, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Florentine Living

Ponte Vecchio, medieval stone bridge over the Arno River has existed in some form here before since at least 996 C.E.  Another iconic Florentine image, this Ponte still has many shops and stalls on and around the bridge in a traditional river-side market style.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Gallery along the River Arno just to the north of Ponte Vecchio filled to nearly bursting with visitors and locals.  Very cool symmetry and repetition here, with some great depth - another personal favorite photo.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Panoramic view of the weekend flea market in Florence, situated along the banks of the small lake next to Fortezza da Basso.  The weather here was surprisingly fluid (no pun), very similar to Florida in respect to those quick changes in conditions throughout the day; just minutes before I snapped this shot I was treated to a lovely (ie. I was unprepared) springtime Tuscan downpour.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

A side of modern Italian life, particularly here in Florence where big-moneied residents still get out and flaunt it.  I happened upon this weekend congregation of sports cars as I meandered away from il Duomo - while looking for another of those classic Florentine enjoyments: gelato.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.



Last, but not least: I found my goal!  I seem to have a knack for being in the right place - or at least finding out about - some very cool and fun local events when I travel.  During this trip, while in Florence it was the Firenze Gelato Festival!!  Here, mobile gelato crafting for fresh curb-side treats, right here in the birthplace of gelato itself.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

This work by Tim Paez is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

bCN

11 May 2013 - 16 May 2013

A grand, old City by the sea - Barcelona is the only European city to where I have returned.  I LOVE this place.  What, exactly, it is... I can't rightly say.  But for some reason (though maybe not for only a single one!) I am completely captivated by the City.  Not only was that sentiment reaffirmed this time, but whilst here during the opposite end of the calendar it was reinforced.  

Barcelona cityscape and the Mediterranean in the background, from atop Park Guell -
quite literally one of my favorite parks in the world. 

Mostly underground and particularly old (even for this part of the city), La Oveja Negra is a super fun and lively hangout, despite its location in a back-alley spot of an already antiquated district.  This place boasts at least two amazing drink specials: a mighty house drink called 'Panthers Milk', and 5-gal fountains of wine for your party.  Barrio Gotic, Barcelona, Spain. 

No joke - the resident kitty at the hostel tucks herself in with the curtain, and naps all day here by the window and wood-burning stove (winter only).  I don't usually plug specific businesss, but I'll shout out here to one of my fave spots to stay at in this grand old city, and, frankly, in the whole world: Hostal Malda, Barrio Gotic, Barcelona. 

I had to throw this one in here...and then only after some research.   To us bilingual latinos, this seemed at first like some pretty overtly racist signage for "barber shop" (though possibly it could have been a play on words by a savvy Asian business owner, here), since we spell it "peluqueria".  But apparently, this is just how they spell and say it in Catalan! 

Placa d'Espana with the Museo Nacional d'Art de Catalunya on the hilltop behind.  Barcelona, Spain.

A very awesome home-cooked meal, a la Hermano y Amigos.  So grateful for the very amazing friends & family I get to be around and spend time with at home and abroad! Chez Barbara, Barcelona, Spain. 

Basilica de la Sagrada Familia - 

Yes, you'll read and see everywhere: it's a marvel of design, engineering, and craftsmanship, etc.  Readers of this blog would know that I particularly appreciate sacred spaces and places of worship and reverence.  While I was once in Barcelona before, this trip was the first time I finally went inside the Basilica.  

Now I can confirm - it is hands-down one of the coolest structures I've ever been inside of!  

Gaudi's structural design - images and elements of which I tried to capture - evokes an open, airy outdoor grove of enormous stolid trees and concentric, radial forms throughout.  At the same time, two other artists across the decades have been charged with the details housed without, upon, and within the superstructure; I tried to capture some of that, too.  Remember, also, that this Cathedral's construction has survived two world wars, fascist dictator, and a turbulent series of economic fluctuations across its nearly 130 years of development.

Overall, I snapped lots and lots of photos of the Basilica, and selected just a few (proportionally) to share here, as well as some info I picked up.  

Cousins posing in front of the towering Torre de Naixement of the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, and already we were about 9 stories up...

...while here I was at the bottom of the same tower, and looking up.  

Stained glass windows on the left, with colors like a rising sun.  Interior central entrance of the Basilica on the right, looking like an old-growth forest with sunlight streaming through the trunks.

 

Another view through the 'forest' - from the Oceania Pillars (see below) - and down the main aisle towards the central altar of the Holy Trinity.  Taken with flash!  Basilica de la Familia Sagrada.

Green filtered light streaming through the glass into the interior.  It's not typical I use a filter... but the new camera has a whole set of features that was especially fun to experiment with here.  Inside Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain. 

This one was pretty cool - detail of an alcove and statue of St. Joseph above the North entrance to the Basilica - and if I recall,  taken with #nofilter!  Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain. 

Shot of an interior rear gallery of the Basilica.  The colors from the sunlight through glass, and the lines of the cieling and mosaic throughout were magnificent.  Basilica de la Sagrada Familia. 

Through the 'trees' and up towards the 'canopy', the entire structure is an incredible achievement of ingenuity and technical skill, begun in an age before the Titanic sailed - and whose construction still continues today!  It was a time when building any structure over a dozen stories tall was a nigh impossible task.  At the point of design and early construction King Alfonso XII ruled in Spain, Grover Cleveland was President of the United States., Queen Victoria was monarch of the United Kingdom, and Pope Blessed Pius IX held the Papcy in Rome.  The computer was nowhere on anyone's radar when construction began - and the only thought of reaching the heavens came from communion with God... 

.. and when hand-calculated plans and scale physical models were the primary engineering tools for this mind-boggling structure.  This,  an inverted rope-and-sandbag model of the interior spires, was used to  evaluate the integrity of the design for the Basilica's roof.  Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain.  

Here, some drawings of the Basilica from design documents throughout it's construction. On the left, a hand-drawing of the intentional symbolism of the main columns and spaces in and around the Basilica; frankly, a rather intricate characterization of the mythology of Church and much of the related politics endemic to Spain. On the right, an early computer model of the past and predictive progress of Basilica across its over 120 years of constriction.  

Less grand, but no less important to the overall majesty of the Basilica, here are is an example of the care applied to the details.  A a statue drawing (left) and the same artists' style applied to the actual statues themselves (right).  

More example of exterior statuary in that cold, angular, greco-esque style of the sculptor.  Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain. 

In the midst of a barrage of (presumably) lines of scripture, the artist here decided to highlight some key questions, including: What is the Truth?  Door to the main South entrance, Basilica de la Familia Sagrada, Barcelona, Spain.

Very early side-view drawing of the Basilica by Gaudi once he had taken over the project in the role of primary Cathedral designer.  Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, Spain.   

More Gaudi - and an iconic Barcelona image - in series of mosaic-encrusted benches along the outer edge of an elevated square inside his custom-designed Parc Guell, Barcelona, Spain.

Off of Gaudi now, and to an older part of Barcelona - here the Port building in Port Veill.   Last time i was here I snapped a shot of some of the detailing of a portion of the building, and that at night; so here it is in it's full splendor, as Colombus may have seen it whilst sailing away towards the Americas, from slightly afar.  Port Building, Barcelona, Spain. 

Finally, an even older spot - Barcelona Cathedral.  Here - in a very fun night shot to capture with the new camera - stands my patient cousin, with the haunting front entrance looming over her shoulder.  Barcelona Cathedral, Barcelona, Spain. 

Up next - the ride to Florence and on into Italy!! 

The photos laid out heretofore are taken with a Sony Cybershot DSC-HX30V 

 
These works by Tim Paez are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License