Firenze!

17 - 21 May, 2013.  Florence, Italy.  

So what is to say about Florence - or Firenze to the Italians and savvy travelers, like us?  It is the ancient Italian City-State that gave impetus to the spread of democracy on the peninsula, and from where the Renaissance sparked amidst the Dark Ages in Europe.  As my first-ever stop in Italy - after a typically awry trek across the Mediterranean - this unabashedly ancient and wonderous nation steeped in the rich history of the ancient Western world, I found Florence to be almost more overwhelming than Rome.   

Which is NOT to say Florence itself was NOT overwhelming - because it most certainly was, in almost every aspect.  Despite my limited experience in the country, I'm inclined to beleive claims that Firenze is the fire in Italy's boot.  

Given its place in European and Western history, especially from Dark Ages through to the end of the Renaissance - its role in the development of such massive Western institutions and ideologies, like representative government, mercantilism, the Catholic Church, humanism, the arts and humanities, and science - today, evidence abounds of the pride and distinction felt by those both native and local to here.  

Perhaps, also, something in the vein of that firey Florentine spirit is shared with and by all those who visit here, too.  In so doing, it perpetuates and sustains the unique character of this phenomenal City...

This photo was snapped close to the moment of epiphany, when I realized I was headed for Florence at just the right place and time for me.  Despite the downpour, the late taxis, and an arrival time 8 hours later than estimated - this instance upon disembarkation in Florence re-envigorated my great affection for all modes of transit, and particularly the wonderful people who explore the world on bikes.  This cycling couple (going around Europe under their own power!) embodied this very old, and respected image of the wary traveler, one who carries on very movement of people and ideas!  Dock-side at the port city of Livorno, Italy.

Firenze! Firenze!  The view South from the top the iconic 'el Duomo' onto the historic City center,  encompasses what is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site - the entire historic downtown of Florence.

Art, art, everywhere!  

At vertices of buildings and streets everywhere - truly, everywhere! - can be found these corner ensconces and devices all over Florence showcasing Dark and Middle Age frescos and statuary, and Renaissance art and sculpture, too.  What abounds here, to the point that it overflows onto the streets and alleys, is a veritable slice of Florentine art, religious, and political history.  Three examples from various parts of the historic downtown, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

More and more statues everywhere!!  A badass sculpture by Benvenuto Cellini, his publicly displayed "Perseus with the Head of Medusa" (left); and a version of one of the most copied sculptures from Greek antiquity,  the Thorn-Puller, or "Lo Spinario" (right).  

Live and direct: Sandro Botticelli's "The Birth of Venus".  I was in clandestine-photog mode while here inside the stupendous Uffizi Gallery.  Typically, no photos were 'allowed' here... however, it appears they make obvious - albeit unofficial - exception in this room for this piece.  Florence, Italy. 

Absolutely stunning inside - in its arrangement, the coloring, and the buildings' history itself - this market-turned-church began its life in 1337 as a multistoried grain market, and soon after as a church used by the City's guild and merchant elite.  Today services and worshippers continue on, and visitors abound.  Another clandestine photo op.  Orsanmichele, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Michelozzo's courtyard, or the Courtyard of the Columns, the interior open-air gallery of Palazzo Medici Riccardi, a rather ostentatious 15th century Medici home for the family founder, now converted to a large, and extremely well-crafted public gallery...

..Very luckily for me, one of the current visiting galleries included The Dali Universe Florence, "an exploration of Dali's three-dimensional forms", which featured a plethora of his crafted and sculpted works.  For me, this showcase heightened my respect for and delight of his works, for one because of the range of materials and media, including this piece like this bronze sculpture...

..In another sections of the Palazzo Museum, there was an fascinating retrospective exhibit of Gunther Stilling's work, featuring over 80 of his uniquely stylized pieces in a rather haunting bio-mechanical human figures and parts.  Terra Incognita Exhibit, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

This guy is one of my favorites - something like a two-headed merman, sitting low along a wall inside the Garden.  Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

An early rain gage, from the late 19th century, from one of my favorite exhibits - EVER: dal Cielo alla Terra,  or 'From the Sky to the Earth: meteorology and seismology in Florence from the 19th Century to Today'.  Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Another early example of a fine seismic instrument.  This phenomenal exhibit was a rather geeky one dedicated to the long tradition of the two fields in Italy and Florence, both for which I have a newfound respect and appreciation (work-related)...  

..and some more very spectacular instruments.  One is an early version of a seismograph (left), and the other, one of my favorites, an early 20th century Pluviografo a bascula, or a tipping-bucket rain gage.  What more can one ask for in Florene: art, science, and human ingenuity?  "From the Sky to the Earth", Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Il Duomo

One of my personal favorite photos, and a shot of the iconic Florentine structure - il Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore.  Construction of this magnificent Gothic cathedral's central began in the late 13th century...

...and Brunelleschi's famous dome - the largest free-standing such structure built since Roman antiquity - was added in the 15th century, using a technique that has apparently been lost to time...

...and the current exterior finish, an incredibly ornate and clearly expensive Neo-Gothic facade of polychrome marble in green, red, and white was completed in the 19th century.  Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

While extraordinarily spectacular on the outside, the interior of the cathedral is surprisingly austere and bare of much ornamentation - except for Vasari & Zuccari's almost 39,000 sq. ft., 16th century fresco under the dome, "The Last Judgement".  A result of the Medici's influence during initial design phases, the humble interior of the cathedral was touted early on as justification for the expense and glamor of the exterior facade.  Under the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Increasingly popular world-wide, these Love Locks were affixed to a gated window on the outer dome of the Cathedral of Florence, overlooking the unbelievably old downtown Florence.  Climbing the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Another view across Florence, from a small window along the route to the top of il Duomo - this time from a rain gutter.  Near the roof, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Florentine Living

Ponte Vecchio, medieval stone bridge over the Arno River has existed in some form here before since at least 996 C.E.  Another iconic Florentine image, this Ponte still has many shops and stalls on and around the bridge in a traditional river-side market style.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Gallery along the River Arno just to the north of Ponte Vecchio filled to nearly bursting with visitors and locals.  Very cool symmetry and repetition here, with some great depth - another personal favorite photo.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Panoramic view of the weekend flea market in Florence, situated along the banks of the small lake next to Fortezza da Basso.  The weather here was surprisingly fluid (no pun), very similar to Florida in respect to those quick changes in conditions throughout the day; just minutes before I snapped this shot I was treated to a lovely (ie. I was unprepared) springtime Tuscan downpour.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

A side of modern Italian life, particularly here in Florence where big-moneied residents still get out and flaunt it.  I happened upon this weekend congregation of sports cars as I meandered away from il Duomo - while looking for another of those classic Florentine enjoyments: gelato.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.



Last, but not least: I found my goal!  I seem to have a knack for being in the right place - or at least finding out about - some very cool and fun local events when I travel.  During this trip, while in Florence it was the Firenze Gelato Festival!!  Here, mobile gelato crafting for fresh curb-side treats, right here in the birthplace of gelato itself.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

This work by Tim Paez is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.