Firenze!

17 - 21 May, 2013.  Florence, Italy.  

So what is to say about Florence - or Firenze to the Italians and savvy travelers, like us?  It is the ancient Italian City-State that gave impetus to the spread of democracy on the peninsula, and from where the Renaissance sparked amidst the Dark Ages in Europe.  As my first-ever stop in Italy - after a typically awry trek across the Mediterranean - this unabashedly ancient and wonderous nation steeped in the rich history of the ancient Western world, I found Florence to be almost more overwhelming than Rome.   

Which is NOT to say Florence itself was NOT overwhelming - because it most certainly was, in almost every aspect.  Despite my limited experience in the country, I'm inclined to beleive claims that Firenze is the fire in Italy's boot.  

Given its place in European and Western history, especially from Dark Ages through to the end of the Renaissance - its role in the development of such massive Western institutions and ideologies, like representative government, mercantilism, the Catholic Church, humanism, the arts and humanities, and science - today, evidence abounds of the pride and distinction felt by those both native and local to here.  

Perhaps, also, something in the vein of that firey Florentine spirit is shared with and by all those who visit here, too.  In so doing, it perpetuates and sustains the unique character of this phenomenal City...

This photo was snapped close to the moment of epiphany, when I realized I was headed for Florence at just the right place and time for me.  Despite the downpour, the late taxis, and an arrival time 8 hours later than estimated - this instance upon disembarkation in Florence re-envigorated my great affection for all modes of transit, and particularly the wonderful people who explore the world on bikes.  This cycling couple (going around Europe under their own power!) embodied this very old, and respected image of the wary traveler, one who carries on very movement of people and ideas!  Dock-side at the port city of Livorno, Italy.

Firenze! Firenze!  The view South from the top the iconic 'el Duomo' onto the historic City center,  encompasses what is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site - the entire historic downtown of Florence.

Art, art, everywhere!  

At vertices of buildings and streets everywhere - truly, everywhere! - can be found these corner ensconces and devices all over Florence showcasing Dark and Middle Age frescos and statuary, and Renaissance art and sculpture, too.  What abounds here, to the point that it overflows onto the streets and alleys, is a veritable slice of Florentine art, religious, and political history.  Three examples from various parts of the historic downtown, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

More and more statues everywhere!!  A badass sculpture by Benvenuto Cellini, his publicly displayed "Perseus with the Head of Medusa" (left); and a version of one of the most copied sculptures from Greek antiquity,  the Thorn-Puller, or "Lo Spinario" (right).  

Live and direct: Sandro Botticelli's "The Birth of Venus".  I was in clandestine-photog mode while here inside the stupendous Uffizi Gallery.  Typically, no photos were 'allowed' here... however, it appears they make obvious - albeit unofficial - exception in this room for this piece.  Florence, Italy. 

Absolutely stunning inside - in its arrangement, the coloring, and the buildings' history itself - this market-turned-church began its life in 1337 as a multistoried grain market, and soon after as a church used by the City's guild and merchant elite.  Today services and worshippers continue on, and visitors abound.  Another clandestine photo op.  Orsanmichele, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Michelozzo's courtyard, or the Courtyard of the Columns, the interior open-air gallery of Palazzo Medici Riccardi, a rather ostentatious 15th century Medici home for the family founder, now converted to a large, and extremely well-crafted public gallery...

..Very luckily for me, one of the current visiting galleries included The Dali Universe Florence, "an exploration of Dali's three-dimensional forms", which featured a plethora of his crafted and sculpted works.  For me, this showcase heightened my respect for and delight of his works, for one because of the range of materials and media, including this piece like this bronze sculpture...

..In another sections of the Palazzo Museum, there was an fascinating retrospective exhibit of Gunther Stilling's work, featuring over 80 of his uniquely stylized pieces in a rather haunting bio-mechanical human figures and parts.  Terra Incognita Exhibit, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

This guy is one of my favorites - something like a two-headed merman, sitting low along a wall inside the Garden.  Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy.

An early rain gage, from the late 19th century, from one of my favorite exhibits - EVER: dal Cielo alla Terra,  or 'From the Sky to the Earth: meteorology and seismology in Florence from the 19th Century to Today'.  Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Another early example of a fine seismic instrument.  This phenomenal exhibit was a rather geeky one dedicated to the long tradition of the two fields in Italy and Florence, both for which I have a newfound respect and appreciation (work-related)...  

..and some more very spectacular instruments.  One is an early version of a seismograph (left), and the other, one of my favorites, an early 20th century Pluviografo a bascula, or a tipping-bucket rain gage.  What more can one ask for in Florene: art, science, and human ingenuity?  "From the Sky to the Earth", Galleria delle Carraozze, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Florence, Italy. 

Il Duomo

One of my personal favorite photos, and a shot of the iconic Florentine structure - il Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore.  Construction of this magnificent Gothic cathedral's central began in the late 13th century...

...and Brunelleschi's famous dome - the largest free-standing such structure built since Roman antiquity - was added in the 15th century, using a technique that has apparently been lost to time...

...and the current exterior finish, an incredibly ornate and clearly expensive Neo-Gothic facade of polychrome marble in green, red, and white was completed in the 19th century.  Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

While extraordinarily spectacular on the outside, the interior of the cathedral is surprisingly austere and bare of much ornamentation - except for Vasari & Zuccari's almost 39,000 sq. ft., 16th century fresco under the dome, "The Last Judgement".  A result of the Medici's influence during initial design phases, the humble interior of the cathedral was touted early on as justification for the expense and glamor of the exterior facade.  Under the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Increasingly popular world-wide, these Love Locks were affixed to a gated window on the outer dome of the Cathedral of Florence, overlooking the unbelievably old downtown Florence.  Climbing the dome, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Another view across Florence, from a small window along the route to the top of il Duomo - this time from a rain gutter.  Near the roof, Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

Florentine Living

Ponte Vecchio, medieval stone bridge over the Arno River has existed in some form here before since at least 996 C.E.  Another iconic Florentine image, this Ponte still has many shops and stalls on and around the bridge in a traditional river-side market style.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Gallery along the River Arno just to the north of Ponte Vecchio filled to nearly bursting with visitors and locals.  Very cool symmetry and repetition here, with some great depth - another personal favorite photo.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

Panoramic view of the weekend flea market in Florence, situated along the banks of the small lake next to Fortezza da Basso.  The weather here was surprisingly fluid (no pun), very similar to Florida in respect to those quick changes in conditions throughout the day; just minutes before I snapped this shot I was treated to a lovely (ie. I was unprepared) springtime Tuscan downpour.  Florence, Tuscany, Italy. 

A side of modern Italian life, particularly here in Florence where big-moneied residents still get out and flaunt it.  I happened upon this weekend congregation of sports cars as I meandered away from il Duomo - while looking for another of those classic Florentine enjoyments: gelato.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.



Last, but not least: I found my goal!  I seem to have a knack for being in the right place - or at least finding out about - some very cool and fun local events when I travel.  During this trip, while in Florence it was the Firenze Gelato Festival!!  Here, mobile gelato crafting for fresh curb-side treats, right here in the birthplace of gelato itself.  Downtown Florence, Tuscany, Italy.

This work by Tim Paez is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

Dalat - Foray into the Alps... of Vietnam.

9 - 11 February

Dalat, Vietnam.

Hardy traveling companions, on the shores of Tuyen Lam Lake; on the way to Datanla Falls.

After our extended stay in paradise, our crew opted for another get-away haven - the city of Dalat. It's described almost everywhere (books, brochures, travel sites, etc.) as the 'Alps of Vietnam', a spot for lovers and friends to escape to, where the climate is cool and mountainous, and the food is fresh and mostly local. Even while securing bus tickets to here, I was constantly met with the same quizzical grin and question: "Why do you want to go to Dalat? It's romantic there, and expensive; for couples!"

Wandering through the innards of the night market - an awesome fixture of urban life in much of Asia. We're so domesticated in the States, with our curfews, noise ordinances, and endless circus of regulations for small vendors - but its here where flows the life of the community.

Aside from the European vibe, here is another reason Dalat is known as le Petit Paris.

Finished by 1942, the Dalat Cathedral, whose spire reached 47-metres, sits in the heart of the city.

Frankly, I had heard a lot about the landscape and natural spots surrounding the city. Several people I'd spoken with had recommended it as a starting point for forays into mountainous rural parts of southern Vietnam. In the several hours over the 3 days we spent getting there, around, and away, I have come to agree. By this time in our journey we did not have so much time to explore the surrounding countryside as deeply as I would have preferred, but the group had maintained a solid sense of coherence after our down-time in Mui Ne, so I stuck with the party. Between the wild night market, the fresh food, and the great weather (not hot, but not cold either; much like San Francisco, I found that Dalat was a seriously pleasant city in which to spend a few days.

Situated below the Nam Ban Pagoda, and magnificent as it is rather dirty, the 30-meter high Thac Voi - Elephant Falls.

Two very different Buddha statues, well-situated across from each other, at Nam Ban Pagoda. Another favorite.

Nam Ban Pagoda, side entrance. Another favorite photo..

The main entrance to this hilltop monastery, sporting intricate Buddhist carvings, houses the massive sitting gold Buddha statue.

Giant sitting Buddha is the center piece of this monastery, and can be seen from almost everywhere in Dalat.

Detail of sand Mandala housed inside the same monastery.

The immediately surrounding land nursed a surprising variety of crops on a mountainous array of hillsides and valleys. For hours beyond the city, the landscape was covered in greenhouses, hundreds of acres of coffee farms, and innumerable farmed acres of everything else from onions to greens to livestock. On a 4-person Easy Rider trip (usually done one-on-one via bike, we were 4-to-2 in a jeep) we learned a lot about the local industries around Dalat, including a nascent dairy industry supported by Dutch foreign investment, a booming artichoke market, and a blossoming market in flowers year-round. In a lot of ways, I got the impression that this region of Vietnam was fairly self-sufficient and in fact an overall exporter of many domestically produced goods. Supposedly, here also is the bottling plant for the now-infamous (among our small traveling crew) and delicious Dalat Wine which can be found all over Vietnam for outrageously cheap - compared to the $USD anyway...

We requested of our Easy Rider guide a less-touristy route, where we could see more communities and natural spots around Dalat. Here, a small rural dam spillway doubles as a local swimming hole.


Awesome reservoir stretching far and away from Dalat - another example of Dalat's relative self-sufficiency. Our Easy Rider tour (for four, in a jeep not a bike) stopped us here for a while, granting us a less touristy side trip up a mountainside for this view.

Long shot of the downstream side of the same river, but here showing the unusual dam-like section. Shallow, but seemingly effective during the dry season.

Detail of dry river bank outside Dalat. Just some wildly shaped stone and clearly once a larger structure.

Great view of the northern limits of Dalat that looks over just a sliver of the local horticulture industry. Fields of flowering plants and rows of low-tech green houses dominate this unique urban landscape.

What was not so cheap - though arguably still relatively affordable when compared to costs in most North American urban areas - was the overnight stay at the Crazy House in Dalat. The Crazy House is a moderately-sized property within walking distance of the downtown area designed and still being built in accordance with the plan of artist & architect Dang Viet Nga . The whole place is a ridiculous dreamland of organic shapes and textures forming rooms and niches throughout an awesomely landscaped compound. I've never seen anything like this place anywhere in the world, and I'm real glad we got a chance to stay here for a night. And it was thanks to the extremely helpful staff here that we were able to catch one of the few daily buses to Nha Trang, and a ride to the station, on very short notice...

Here is the rear side of the Honeymoon suite at the Crazy House. ..

...with a very clear fairyland-like quality clearly evident from the Front side garden of the same suite. Just a single structure out of many existing and planned at the Crazy House.

From across the garden and up on a balcony, a view over the main courtyard of the Crazy House at one of the central buildings. Much of it is still under construction on the inside, however.

Closer details of the balcony entrance of this central building within the Crazy House.

Looking up towards the rooftop, a great example of the unique exterior passages of the Crazy House. This one reaches the top of the gabled roof of the central building.

A view from above the Crazy House - looking over Dalat in the distance. Look close to see labyrinthine side-building, where the passageways wrap around the exterior of the structure, and the rooms and suites form the core.

Still under construction, here clearly evident in real-time. A labor of love, it seems, for the workers who construct according to paintings and sketches instead of blueprints and designs.

Home security, a la DIY style. Outside wall of Crazy House, in a section still under construction. Just a cool shot..

More wacky passageways between buildings of the Crazy House.

One building is built to resemble a giraffe - in an excellent example of how the place is meant to look natural and organic, with very few straight lines or linear shapes. Here Natasja surveys the Crazy House compound from above, soon after we entered the place.

The photos laid out heretofore are taken with an Olympus Stylus 1050 SW 

 
These works by Tim Paez are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License