Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Toldeo - City of Three Cultures

24 December 2009 - The final challenge on our last day in Madrid was to actually leave the city. Not only was I at last orienting myself in the city and really digging the metro system, but we had to pick up a car (stick shift) and navigate through urban holiday traffic out of Madrid. But once on the road we crossed through a spectacular arid-plateau landscape on our way to Toldeo, the ancient City of Three Cultures.

Toldeo is really an old-ass, ancient city. Older than old and located at just about the center of the peninsula, it has served alternately as the Iberian nexii of power for Muslim, Christian, & Jewish empires for much of the last millenia. The varied influences of all three cultures is evident EVERYWHERE - in the architecture, the city layout, the artwork, the establishments, and the languages. Given the little I saw in my half-day visit, I was incredibly moved by the historical self-consciousnes of this city, especially felt perhaps becase we arrived on Christmas Eve. Between discovering chilled Patcharan, eating toasted bread with meat and beer, grubbing on tapas and drinks at a just-opened bar, getting seperated from our party a few hours, and brief encounters during simple sight-seeing, I can say it is a truly beautiful city, both visually and in a culturally deep and rich sense.




As it heralded our approach to Toledo my brother told us this bull image serves as the logo for a long-time popular domestic drink.


The highway-side entrance to 'downtown' Toledo was overhung by the very grass from above.



Soon after entering Toldeo's walled interior city, we passed the door of this real-life Order of monks or knights.


Long-time home of Domenikos Theotokopkulos (El Greco!), on the left.


Real. Old City. Note the patterned tiled walls and elevated water tank.


Interior patio (certifiably award-winning) of well-preserved traditional Toldeo home.


View looking south from Toldeo's hillside onto Targus River.


Main entrance to Cathedral of Toldeo. I entered later just before Christmas Eve mass - WOW.



Sticking to the roots Toledo-style, with Cathedral of Toledo in background. I also just really like this photo.


View of Southern pedestrian entrance to Toldeo over Tagus River, from down along city wall. Note bud Chris for scale.

Natural attenuation surrounding city's outer wall between Targus.


Ancient, narrow alleys as shown perfectly by my brother.

Close-up view of another cathedral, note complete difference of style.


Two very different sculptures over a dwelling's entrance.


Homage to Spanish 19th century writer, poet, journalist, and one-time Toledo resident, Gustavo Adolfo Becquer.


Old-world city landscapes seen from an ancient urban canyon/alleyway.



Another ancient alleyway going uphill. If walls in this city could talk...

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